A Professionals Guide to Choosing the Right Hairdressing

Step 1 - The handle You will have seen before the classic scissor handle design. It's straight, it's even length, but it's not designed for people. You will also probably have seen the offset handle. With this scissor handle, one of the finger rings is shorter in length than the other. This is widely recognised as the superior type of hairdressing scissor and you can see why if you are able to hold both together. You would see that whilst the straight scissor is at 12 o'clock, the offset scissor is at 1 o'clock. This means that when you're working - if you're point cutting with a straight handle scissor for instance, your elbow and your wrist are very high, which is quite uncomfortable and not a good posture. Whereas with the offset, it is much lower. When you're cutting against skin, the straight handle is quite obstructed and I will often see stylists lifting the scissor off as they cut around the skin. However, with the offset handle there's little or no obstruction in cutting against the skin. If you want to taper to its most effective, you could choose the offset Rotating Thumb Scissor, or what we call the Revo, Revolving Thumb scissor. If you were to put it alongside any straight handle scissor, you would again see that the straight handle scissor is open whereas the offset is closed. This is because the gap between your finger and thumb is larger, which puts less pressure on the carpel tunnel nerve. Secondly you would notice the angle which you know makes the elbow lower. Third and most importantly, when you're working on any haircut, cutting over the knuckles, it allows you to drop your elbow, to a much more relaxed and comfortable position, which is going to save a lot of aches and pains. Step 2 - The Blade There are really only two types of scissor blades. The first are mainly made in Europe, often Germany, they are flat, the blades are straight, they have a beveled, almost kind of a chiseled edge, and they often have serrations. These cut like a guillotine. When the hair hits the blade, it can't move and off it comes. They don't slice cut, they only cut still. Convex blades are very different. This has got a curve on the blade, it is hollow ground, it's made from two pieces of metal, and instead of the European scissors which is made in one day, this takes up to two weeks to make. The difference is with this you can slice cut as well as cut crisp, straight lines. These are recognized as a much superior type of blade. Step 3 - The Type of Scissor I would always recommend choosing a Long Blade, a Short Blade, a Thinning Scissor, and a Layering / Texturiser scissor. With these four key 'Tools of the Trade' you can take on any haircut in the most efficient way. Lots of hairdresser will start their careers with the Short Blade scissor, around 5' in length. But lots will finish their career with it too, never understanding the difference between blade lengths. If you can only use a short blade, remember it's designed to be used, originally, for cutting hair inside the fingers in the palm of the hand, and for cutting against the skin in very small, precise sections. That's OK if you do that kind of work. But if you use a technique where you create texture type haircuts, or if your cut over the knuckles, the longer blade means that you can cut there much more easily. If you point cut, the blade's long enough to go into sections. Lots of hairdressers use a short blade to cut over the knuckles. The problem is the blade is not as stable, and you'll often see them go in one, two, three, and cut the skin. Or if they point cut, they'll move the scissor hand and actually cut off too much hair on the way in. So remember, if you do cut over the knuckles, a Longer Blade (6' - 6.5' in length) is going to give you a cleaner line much more safely, and if you point cut, a much softer haircut without having to move your scissor hand. I also recommend that every stylist use a 30 Tooth Thinning Scissor. How many times does a hairdresser need to remove weight from the hair without seeing any cut marks? How many times do they need to blend two sections together? This is designed to get the perfect finished result when you're blending together. Some of my clients actually describe it as 'evaporating' the hair away with no marks. Another important piece of equipment is the 15 Tooth Layering / Texturising Scissor. This has two main jobs; one is to create soft layers, and the other is to create texture. The question is: how many times do you do a haircut that you want to create soft texture? Most stylists, the ones that haven't been educated about the 15 Tooth, will use a solid blade scissor, do the whole haircut, blow-dry it, and then go over and point cut with the solid blade. So that's two hair cuts on one client. By using the 15 Tooth Layering / Texturising Scissor, you can get that result in one go. It can be done over your fingers, over your knuckles, or scissor over comb. This is probably one of the most underused, but groundbreaking products available in the world of hairdressing today. With those four key tools of the trade, you can take on any haircut in the most efficient way.
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